Boun That Luang Procession

The annual Boun That Luang (or That Luang Festival) in Vientiane is a week-long from 22nd to 28th November 2012.

On the day before the full moon (27 November this year), a procession of faithfuls and lay-people from all 18 provinces formed the colourful procession to Pha That Luang (The Golden Stupa). The crowd was just fantastic, very lively with music, drums and singing. They performed their traditional dances and songs of their provinces and villages. Many are dressed in their colourful traditional costumes.

On the early morning of the final day of the festival, thousands of monks from the provinces, who had been camping in the temples of the stupa, would circumambulate 3 times in procession around the stupa. Unfortunately, I had to skip this event as I need to go to work.

On the final night, the full moon night which falls on 28 November this year, the stupa was fully lighted up. There was a large crowd lining up in front of the stupa gate to go into the grounds of the stupa. They carry flowers and candles as offerings to Budhha.

It is an event not to be missed if you in Vientiane. I am very fortunate that this time my consultancy work programme in Vientiane coincided with this festival. It was a field day for photography.

If you plan to come to Laos for a holiday, you must coincide your trip with this That Luang Festival.

Blogger in blue shirt - Odd man out without any offerings!

The Golden Stupa fully lighted.

Waiting for the Stupa Gate to be opened. A Monk was chanting before the opening of the gate

The crowd waiting to circumulate the stupa.

Boun That Luang

Today being a Sunday, I decided to spent my time visiting "Boun That Luang" or That Luang Festival that is taking place in Vientiane.

Pha That Luang, also known as the Golden Stupa is the national symbol and the most important religious monument of Laos. The monument dates from 1566. It has been destroyed and ransacked and renovated numerous times. The site is sacred as the Lao people believe that the stupa enshrines a relict of Budhha.

Pha That Luang (Golden Stupa)

The Golden Stupa

"Boun That Luang" is Vientiane's most important Theravada Buddhist festival. It is held for a week during the full moon of the 11th Lunar month. This year (being a Lunar Leep year), the week-long festival starts on 22 November and will end on 28 November (15th day of the lunar month - full moon day). Monks and lay-people from all over Laos congregate at the stupa to celebrate the occasion with 3 days of religious ceremonies followed by a week-long festivities, day and night.

The procession of lay-people begins at Wat Si Muang in the city center and proceeds to Pha That Luang to make offerings to the monks in order to accumulate merits for rebirth into a better life. The religious part concludes as lay-people, carrying incense and candles as offerings circumulate Phat That Luang 3 times in honour of Buddha. Folk and popular music troupes and drama performances provide entertainment at the festival. Read more here.

One of the Offerings besides flowers and candles

The temple has set a number of stores collecting donations

Another Temple Store

Seeking for a favourable horoscope on this auspicious festival

Besides the religious activities, there is a carnival atmosphere at Pha That Luang, especially for shoppers with many stores selling all kinds of merchandise. From clothing, hand bags, shoes, wood carvings, food, tit bits, mobile phones, DVDs etc. There is also a mini fun fare for the children.

 

     

Typical Traditional Lao Meal

Yesterday I had a typical traditional everyday Lao meal called laap for lunch with my Laotian colleagues.

Laap is a very typical Lao dish.

It may be prepared from chopped pieces of pork, beef, fish or duck that is mixed with lime juice and stir-fried in fish sauce with mint, coriander, spring onion and chili. 

It is also often made from raw meat or fish.

We ordered cooked duck laap (pieces of duck meat and gizzard).

Laap is usually eaten with sticky rice (khao nieow in Lao language).

Eating laap is accompanied by some raw vegetables including baby eggplant, mustard leaves, mint, basil, bird-eye chili and lettuce. 

We also had fresh string beans and boiled sword beans.

The meal is also usually taken with meat soup. We ordered duck soup, boiled with tomatoes.

 

Sticky rice is the staple food for Laos. This rice is the glutinous rice variety.
About 80% of rice grown in Laos is of this variety.
This rice variety naturally sticks together when steamed.
That's probably why it is called "sticky rice".
When steamed, it is easy to roll into small balls, dip into the laap sauce and eat with your fingers.

For 5 of us, this lunch costs 185,000 KIPs (USD23.00).
We had 3 plates of duck laap and 2 bowls of duck soup!

This is a very delicious but heavy lunch, especially with the slow digesting sticky rice.
I was still feeling full at dinner time.

Duck Meat Laap

Fresh Vegetables

String beans and steamed sword beans

Some Chilies

Sticky Rice (Khao Nieow) served in baskets. One basket per person.

Rolling the sticky rice

Duck soup

Steaming sticky rice after it has been soaked in water for 6 to 8 hours

 

Welcome Back Lunch

Spent the day working with my Laotian colleagues.
Three of them decided that we should go for an early lunch.
It turned out that they wanted to give me a "welcome back" lunch.
This is actually my 6th trip to Vientiane, 3 in 2009 and 3 this year.
I have be working with this set of colleagues since then.
We have been able to work very closely together on our project.
These colleagues of mine are fantastic hosts, and I always enjoy their companionship.
The lunch was heavy for me though it was delicious.
I enjoyed the food they ordered, although they are mainly meat dishes.

Pork belly with hard boiled eggs stewed in soya sauce

Bitter Gourd stuffed with minced meat

Fried minced meat wrapped with herbal leaves

Raw baby round brinjal

Pork Knuckle Ham

Beer Lao